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On Received Wisdom: Dmitriev-Mamonov
and Turkmen Carpets
August 2007
There is a routine Russian travelogue based on an excursion via
the new railroad through Turkmen territory, c. 1900.1 Here
is its carpet survey:
“From forgotten times and right up to the present the many
localities of Turkestan in their own ordinary life are still satisfied,
in the main, with the productions of their own kustar’ [home
craft] hand work. With the onset of Russian hegemony, there
appeared in Central Asia no exploitation of native work, but rather
with a protector, there was improvement and development of specialties
in native kustar’ productions; the many branches
of native work, having been liberated from age-old limits, routines,
and customs, have found new undertakings for their own economic
activities, and more extensive markets.
“In the ranking of fields of kustar’ production,
according to the scale of production, first place will belong to
works made out of wool and especially to the manufacture of koshmas [felt]
and of felt [sic].
“The koshma has an enormous usage by the natives;
the nomadic population covers its yurts with it; it serves as a
bed on the road for the nomad and the settled native, and for the
wrapping of pack loads of goods; in addition it is used together
with a carpet for covering the ground. The women of the nomadic
population chiefly concern themselves with koshma production. Koshmas are
prepared in the following manner…… The better koshmas are
considered to be the Yomud and the white Kashgar. Left over
from satisfaction of local requirements, supplies of koshmas serve
as an article of considerable export to Russia.
“Carpet and palas [pile-less carpets] production
is especially developed in Transcaspia [Turkmenistan] and Fergana
[eastern Turkestan] provinces, and in Bukhara and Khiva. The
better carpets are considered to be manufactured by the Turkmens
of Transcapia province. They separate into carpets in a strict
sense of essentially different dimensions, but no greater than
6 arshins [14 feet], namazliyki [prayer rugs], ensi [door
curtains], chuvaly [large bags], torby [small
bags], dorozhki [bands], khurdzhiny [saddle bags].
“A small rug is called namazlyk, being stretched out under
the legs at time of prayer; ensi – a little rug intended for
curtaining off the doors of kibitkas [yurts]. Chuvals
and torbas, narrow carpet pockets, which hang on the walls of a kibitka
and serve as keep-safes for small belongings. The dorozhka
has the form of a carpet band from 1/3 to 1/2 arshin [9”
to 14”] in width and up to 20 arshins [46’ 9”]
in length, for the binding of the wooden framework of a yurt.
“According to established custom, all sorts of Turkmen girls
go off to study at a school of weaving art, inasmuch as she must
participate in the production of rugs intended for her dowry before
going to get married. The assortment of patterns is different
for the various tribes. The most ancient is called “Salor
rose” (Salor gul), used chiefly in the Merv district. In
addition to the ancient Salor pattern, on rugs of Turkmen manufacture
characteristic designs can most conveniently be distinguished as:
Akhal, Ersari, Yomud roses, and the patterns of namazliks and ensi,
depicting the principal feature of the plan of the Kaaba. At present
because of its quality, carpet-making of the Pendeh Saryks is put
in first place, and next the Merv, Tedjen and Askhabad Turkmens
[all Tekkes], and finally the Yomuds, Orgurzhali and other tribes
of Krasnovdosk district which already have lost to a certain extent
the characteristic drawing of Turkmen patterns, acquiring a whole
series of new patterns, in which it is not possible not to see
the borrowing and the inroads of the demands of the market.
“For the production of carpet goods white wool of better
quality is selected, from which yarns are prepared for the warps
and the pile. The dyeing of wool is carried out with colors
primarily of vegetable origin. Each little yarn is tied by
hand around the warp with suitable knots, and is clipped. In
this fashion, the painstaking work progresses, and in a week one
weaver is not able to weave more than 1 ½ square arshins.
[12 sq. ft.]
“Tekke carpets of old manufacture, thanks to solidity of
weaving, durability of colors and strictly consistent dignified
design gain the highest price. In more recent times the quality
of carpets has significantly fallen with the introduction of more
vivid but less fast colors and with their having been manufactured
in haste for sale.
“A multitude of small wares agents, from Paris, Berlin and
Vienna carry out of Central Asia, in particular from Merv, the
better old carpet production, part as models for fabrics, part
for the upholstering of furniture; owing to this all these products
have considerably increased in price.
“From sheeps’ wool they manufacture ropes, lassos, horse
bags (nose bags), pack animal bags (khurdzhiny), fabric for foot
cloths, etc. From camels’ wool – bags, and the
fabric for armiyaks [peasant cloth coats], kokma [kokhma? – reversible
tapistry weave] and others; from goats’ hair cloth tibut’–sallya, shalis, pai-taba and
others. From horse hair, mixed with wool, they make ropes;
from better horse hair there are prepared
bedspreads, and “chadra” for native women;
also out of choice horse hair there are prepared suspenders and
braids, kokul’, which are worn by the native women.”
This short survey has been available in English for a number of
years.2 Except
for the mention of a weaving school for girls, various product
ephemera, the Kaaba – engsi connection, and the
politically correct bow to the Czar, the report presents the same
portrait – in terms of quality assessment, tribal attributions,
nomenclature, and market conditions – as do today’s
writings about Turkmen carpets. Mamadov, in brief, embodies
the then current wisdom. He (1903) preceded Bogolyubov(1908),
Semenov (1911), Felkersham (1914), and Dudin (1917, 1928).
All four of the authors spent time in the region, and wrote in
considerable detail about the carpets. It is also true, however,
that the nature of the Turkmen oeuvre was fairly well known before
their time. They did not start with a blank slate. The Mamanov
travelogue provides a useful perspective on these rug books and
articles, a reminder that some of the contents may incorporate
invalid received wisdom.
In this vein, the Mamanov book accidentally cast a tiny bit of
light on the tenaciousness of received wisdom. Some years
ago in a slide talk at the Haji
Baba Society, an illustration, a photograph (shown here, in a perfectly
awful reproduction) showed (immediately in front of the weavers)
a recognizable flattened gol motif. Another carpet
photographed in 1882, by comparison, used an essentially squarish
(1.1:1.0) gol drawing. Today’s conventional wisdom
has it that the horizontal form is “late”. The
photo in Mamonov was taken either in 1896 or, slightly more likely,
in 1898 and was pirated from a book by Annette Meakin; Foelkersam
(1914) in turn pirated it from Mamonov, and thus it entered the
rug literature.
So, naturally, 1914 dated the rug, wrongly. One of ICOC
Turkmen experts who happened to be present remarked that willy-nilly
the photo’s history, he still thought that the flattened gol form
was “late”. This reaction was either a breath-takingly
casual redefinition of what was late, or an impressive display
of denial. Not much of a choice.
Received wisdom inevitably contains some mistakes; progress in science,
indeed, is in part correction of prior error. Rare in science,
in other domains, where proof can be less categoric, there well may
be some “experts” with a vested interest in clinging
to revealed error. (How can one remain an expert by confessing
to having embraced a mistake?) Perhaps the term, authority, might
usefully be employed to describe someone who readily accepts concrete
new facts, and who, as well, knows what he or she does not know.
The main point provided by Mamonov, however, is that even the
great men -- Dudin, Foelkersham, Semenov -- may have passed on
some of the mistakes in the conventional wisdom of their era. And
in fact, a number have been caught by the diligent technical analyses
of today’s current Turkmen rug aficionados.
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