WEAVING IN BESSARABIA
Volume IX Number
Report doesn't cover Russia other than Caucasia and Central
Asia but, aware of substantial European Russian weaving in Tobolsk
(Tiumen), Kursk, and Bessarabia Provinces, feels a responsibility
to offer an occasional something on European Russia. The following
material concerning weaving in Bessarabia contains an older (1889)
commentary, but is for the most part a 1912 report by S. A. Davydova.
(1) The photograph on page 3 presents a view of the Bessarabian
exhibit at the 1913 St. Petersburg All-Russian Kustar Exhibition.
production has long been ignored by the local inhabitants of Bessarabia
province. It was only in 1889, when a kustar' section was
included in the Agricultural Exhibition in Kishenev, that brief
mentions began to appear in the press. An article by D. D. Suruchan
on kustar' crafts in Bessarabia (2) provides some information
on the activities of the rural population there:
is the local women who are primarily engaged in rural cottage
production. When she is not busy in the fields, every Moldavian
woman (with few exceptions) spends her free time spinning and
weaving linens, towels, runners, sashes, carpets, and other
such items. The fabric they produce is primarily intended for
the personal use of the entire family and only in extreme financial
need is it sold outside the home. Incidentally, with the increasing
shortage of land that has afflicted the local population in
the last decade and the need for money to pay a variety of taxes,
in many regions of Bessarabia spinning and weaving have begun
to change from a domestic production to a kustar' one, that
makes goods for sale in nearby bazaars. But even here the craft
is inseparable from domestic production, since the work for
sale is merely a continuation of the weaving done to meet the
needs of the family.'
such conditions of kustar' production in the region it is not
surprising that women's work prevailed at the exhibition. Indeed,
there were carpets and 'kadril' woollen materials, fabrics of
raw-silk mixed with cotton, 'naframs' and 'chadry', hand-towels,
table-cloths and bed-linens, linen, belts, Bulgarian dark-red
and white cloth, woollen 'bysagy' and other goods made by village
women. Evidently, all these domestic goods suited the tastes of
the Bessarabian population, which still retained its national
habits and customs.
"The account of this exhibition and a trip to the wilds of
the province permit me to sketch out, albeit briefly, the activities
of the local female population.
"Peasant carpets are all smooth, genuine 'kilims'. The materials
mostly used for carpet goods are the wool of local sheep, the
'tsushek' breed in the north and central part of Bessarabia, and
the 'tsygai' breed in the south, and hemp. Woollen and hemp yarn
is spun by the weavers themselves. Previously carpets were made
of pure wool, but more recently a hemp yarn has been used for
the warp, since it is more resistant to moth-damage. The weavers
also dye the yarn, using analine and sometimes vegetable dyes.
For example, to dye yarn black they use walnut husk.
"The patterns used are exceptionally varied, and have absolutely
no resemblance to the designs on carpets I have seen in other
areas of Russia, the Caucasus, and Central Asia. The Bessarabian
patterns take the form of distinctive geometric and fantastical
ornaments. Of the latter type particularly striking are designs
that resemble a tree adorned with flowers. We can surmise that
the frequent repetition of this design in a number of variations
represents the great branch adorned with all manner of flowers,
fruits, and fabric scraps which is a part of Moldavian burial
rites. Moreover, carpet designs include many stylized flowers
which are called in Moldavian 'trandifir', i.e. a rose, or mallow.
The background of most Moldavian carpets is black, although colored
grounds are also sometimes used. They also make striped carpets.
Carpets are therefore indispensable to the life of a Bessarabian,
both as a necessity and a luxury in his daily existence.
"There is also another group of individuals who use carpets
in their home environment: the priests. But they do not like the
smooth Bessarabian carpets, and order instead large 'cropped'
carpets. They always provide the patterns for the carpets themselves,
and their choice can often be quite astonishing. For instance,
during my visit to S. V. Kazitsyna's handicraft school in Khotin
u'ezd, I was present during negotiations with a priest who had
come with his wife to order a large carpet. Having first specified
the exact dimensions of the carpet and the manner in which it
was to be woven, i.e. 'cropped', the priest presented Madame Kazitsyna
with a parcel containing the pattern he had chosen for his carpet.
The design depicted a scene from Woe From Wit. In the background
was the grand staircase leading to the second floor, while downstairs
a lackey stood by the staircase wearing a three-cornered hat and
a baldric, and holding a mace. In the center of the foreground
stood the portly figure of Famusov in a tailcoat. To his left
was Chatsky, thin and with his arms dangling at his sides, as
if he'd just been thrown into the water. To his right was Sofia,
while Liza stood a little behind him. Sofia held a handkerchief
to her eyes with both hands, so that her face was covered. As
he showed us the sketch, the priest said, 'Everything's fine,
only uncover the girl's face'...One can well imagine what an ugly
carpet must have resulted from the reproduction of this scene
on a cropped carpet. But such was the client's taste, and in this
case Madame Kazitsyna complied.
"There are two kinds of looms used by the weavers in Bessarabia:
vertical and horizontal. The vertical looms, called 'razboi',
are identical to the looms used in Kursk province, and there is
therefore no need to describe them again here. The same is true
of the horizontal looms, mentioned in my essay on carpet production
in Poltava province, where they do double duty for weaving woollen
and cotton fabrics, as well as smooth carpets.
"On my visit to the city of Kishenev in the summer of 1912,
I was able to familiarize myself with the activities of the Bessarabian
Zemstvo in constructing a Zoological, Agricultural and Kustar'
Museum, and also to meet with several individuals engaged in putting
together collections for the museum. Among other things, this
exceptionally beautiful building contains a rich collection of
carpets, both old and new.
"Thanks to the kind assistance of the agronomist Ia. M. Savchenko
and the museum director's assistant 0. T. Kireeva, I was able
to make a detailed study of this collection. They also provided
me with some details on carpet weaving in Bessarabia province.
Carpet weaving is widespread throughout the province, where the
Moldavians use carpets both to furnish their homes and as part
of their local customs. The production of carpets for sale occurs
in Khotinskaia Bukovina (the northern part of Khotin u'ezd, which
is settled by Ruthenians [Ukrainians].
"Because land allotments are inadequate -- about two tithes
[4.5 acres] -- the population is forced to earn money in kustar'
activities. As a result, it is here above all that measures could
have been taken to develop the carpet trade. The principal shortcoming
in carpet production is the lack of good patterns, and as a result
the weavers use a variety of new, unrefined designs that lower
the value of the carpets.
"There are no orders for carpets taken, since there is no
organized market for them. Regarding the wages earned by the weavers,
Ia. M. Savchenko referred me to a publication of the Provincial
Authority, which puts it at 24 kopeks a day.
"According to Savchenko, the underlying factors that inhibit
the development of the carpet trade in Bessarabian province are
1) lack of an organized market for the carpets and 2) inadequate
instruction in the dyeing of yarn, weaving the carpets and disseminating
"As a supplement to the above information I include below
facts gathered from a questionnaire investigating kustar industry
that was distributed in 1912 by the Department of Agriculture
and Agricultural Statistics.
"Sorok u'ezd. V. G. Dimitriu reports the following:
'There are approximately 150 to 200 households where women are
engaged in making carpets from sheep's wool and weaving linen
cloth. This type of work has been going on here for a long time,
and it has become more widespread thanks to encouragement from
the agricultural exhibitions....At an agricultural exhibition
in the village of Edintsy two peasant women won a silver medal
for their carpets, and that was as far as it went. Still, that
sort of encouragement had an impact on other peasant women at
the exhibition, but the problem was that they had no materials
and had other day-to-day worries to deal with. The population
of Bessarabia is made up mostly of Moldavians. On the local market
their carpets and multicolored belts and hand-worked scarves are
famous, but further afield no one has ever heard of them -- there's
no one to popularize them. It would be gratifying to improve such
a form of kustar' industry and not allow it to disappear, but
it is very possible that that will happen, since the middlemen
only consider the cost of the materials, ignoring the value of
the work itself. Needy peasant women have to resort to all manner
of compromises, while a carpet worth 100 to 150 rubles for the
work alone is sold for peanuts.
"Khotin u'ezd. F. Ia. Lysyi reports of carpet production
in the village of Rukshin, Rukshin volost' and part of Klimkov
volost' that 'In winter, from the second part of October to early
April, the peasant women are engaged in weaving, embroidery and
carpet production. For the most part they make indoor runners,
wall and floor carpets, and linen.
'It is impossible to calculate how many families are engaged in
this work, since weaving and carpet making are carried out in
almost every large family with teenage girls in Rukshin and Klimov
'Production of carpets, runners, towels and other woven goods
has existed in these areas for over twenty years. Over the past
decade it has increased because the region in question has little
arable land and is heavily populated, and the craft supplements
and supports the whole household....'
"Belets u'ezd. S. K. Popovich reports on the situation
of carpet production in Belets u'ezd that 'In Belets-Slobodzei
volost' as in other villages in the u'ezd, the peasant population
is engaged in weaving carpets and linen.
'Since there are several families involved in this trade in every
village in Belets u'ezd, it is impossible to ascertain their number.
Weaving has gone on here for a very long time, but in recent years
has declined. This can be explained by the decrease in pasture
for sheep...The entire peasant population is engaged in agriculture,
since kustar' craft is considered just a supplementary income
which is impossible to survive on. In view of the conditions outlined
above, improvements and development of the craft cannot be expected,
since the population is engaged in it as a side-line only.'
"Bender u'ezd. D. D. Pisarzhevsky reports that 'Throughout
the whole Bender u'ezd kustar' production, in the form of carpet
and linen weaving, is confined entirely to domestic consumption.
The kustar' crafts here cannot have any great significance since
the population are very prosperous and lazy, and haven't the slightest
desire to earn a living by their own labor or to put something
away for a rainy day. Kustar' production will increase when the
population feels a greater need for it.'"
Author/compiler Davydova was an experienced veteran of the kustar'
textile industry. Her comment as to the distinctiveness of Bessarabian
carpets needs perspective; to the untrained eye this distinctiveness
is by no means obvious, and there are Kursk and Tiumen rugs which
are superficially similar. And, some of the weavers were Ukrainians,
a further complication.
Some of the details in the account are helpful: not all carpets
were pileless, and hemp warp is diagnostic. Nontraditional designs
were being used. But the main message may be of a general sort,
and a cautionary one, for Bessarabian weaving does not appear
to have been all that extensive. Given a much more substantial
activity in Tiumen, there is a fair opportunity for misattribution.
The account further suggests that not many pieces predate the
1890 kustar period, so there are, as well, good misdating potentials.
If an item is identified as late 18th/early 19th century Bessarabian,
there had better be some accompanying evidence.
S. A., et al, "Zhenskie Promysly", Kustarnaya
Promyshlennost' rossii, St. Petersburg, 1913, pp.332--340,
Research Report translation.
D. D., "0 Kustarnykh promyslakh v Bessarabii , Bessarabskii
vestnik, No. 15, 1889. Research